Burgundy harvest 2015: more challenging for whites

19 September 2015

By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com

As Bordeaux readies itself for its harvest later this month and into October, still a while ahead, Burgundy has finished its pickings, which took place mainly between end August and mid September.

Despite hail-hit vineyards in Chablis earlier this month, damage was not extensive (about 2% as my friend Jane Anson reported for decanter.com). During a press conference on 17 September, BIVB president Claude Chevalier also minimized the effect of the hail for Chablis. Also at the press conference, Burgundy expert Jasper Morris, MW, author of the excellent book Inside Burgundy (which is being translated into French), told me that rain towards the end of the harvest actually helped to increase volume – and that damage was indeed limited to parts of the region, albeit to fine vineyards including Blanchots, Montmains, Montée de Tonnerre and parts of the famous Les Clos Grand Cru.

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Claude Chevalier and Louis Fabrice Latour at the BIVB press conference on Thursday 17 September

As for the rest of Burgundy, vintners were smiling – from the south to the north – because of sunny weather at and leading up to harvest time.

Reminding vintners of 2005 … Read More

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Lovely La Louvière and Couhins Lurton: tastings in red and white

By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com

September 15, 2015

Special note: Unless otherwise indicated, all photos published here were taken by the talented Hélène Brun-Puginier, with her authorization. However they cannot be copied from this site and re-used without her authorization. 

When I first came to France, back in 1996, I recall enjoying a bottle of Château La Louvière (red) 1990. It was a very tasty wine at about five years of age in bottle. Château La Louvière is a wine I have purchased ever since. Vintages like 1998 and 2001 bring fond memories.

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A gorgeous estate (photo by Panos Kakaviatos)

So I was thrilled to be invited to a comprehensive vertical of the estate earlier this month at the château, led by winemaker Vincent Cruege.

The tasting included both reds and whites, as the estate is known for both. I joined two tasters from the UK merchant Berry Bros and Rudd for a vertical spanning four decades of reds and whites, including neighboring estate Château Couhins-Lurton, both owned by legendary winemaker and owner André Lurton. Read More

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Bordeaux 2015: Could rains complicate potentially excellent vintage?

14 September 2015

By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com

The weather chart looks worrying. Rain, rain … and more rain expected this week.

It already rained Friday to Sunday, 11-13 September.

This brings back memories of reporting on Bordeaux’s 2006 harvest on location in Pauillac for decanter.com. I was talking with Jean-Rene Matignon, director of the famous second growth Château Pichon Baron. He told me all had been really fine until rains started to fall and his quote nine years ago, almost to this day: “We need to start picking the Merlot this Wednesday,” Matignon said. “It is just too bad. Before the rains, we had a natural average degree of 14 for the Merlot – brilliant, just like in 2005,” he added. Other winemakers expressed similar concerns, in this story

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Ominous clouds over the vineyard, in September 2015

Could 2015 be 2006 déjà vu? Well, not so fast. The rains that fell nine years ago just about at harvest time were very hard and intense in a shorter period. So far this year there have been lighter bursts, but nothing as heavy as in 2006. Then again, the chart is not very encouraging. And I also met Jean-Rene in Pauillac during the second week of September this year. His thoughts on 2015? “I’d rather not say anything before we bring the grapes into the vat room.” Read More

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Strasbourg’s first Italian wine bar: Better late than never

4 September 2015

By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com

Strasbourg is a significant European city. Its multifaceted architecture reflects Europe’s rich, long history. Styles range from Middle Age bridges to European institutional buildings: some appealingly post-modern, others 1970s-era eyesores.

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Summer light show on Strasbourg’s famous cathedral

This capital city of the Alsace region in northeastern France hosts the European Parliament. It is located near the German border, something I appreciate because goods and services are less expensive in Germany, from housing to tobacco. Many French – who still love cancer-causing smoke – find their cigarette nirvana in the over-the-border town of Kehl, which features loads of tobacco shops. Read More

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Wine glasses matter, but should not cause tunnel vision

By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com 

2 September 2015

So, you are meeting with fellow wine friends, tasting through different wines. If you and your fellow oenophiles drink from the same type of glass, then you all have the same vantage point, correct?

So why the hell would you really need to pay $100 for an ultra fancy wine glass?

Or even $25?

Besides, it may be a good time to reject the most widely sold producer, Riedel.

That company is threatening legal action against a humorous blogger known as the Hosemaster of Wine for a post where the blogger pokes fun at the company’s owner Georg Riedel.

Talk about poor public relations. Read More

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