Wine ChroniclesWhere Müller Thurgau meets pasta: Trentino
Posted on November 7, 2015
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
7 November 2015
As the early autumn sun set, Massimo Tarter, general director of Cantina d’Isera at Via al Ponte, 1 in Isera (Trento), served tasty local charcuterie and cheeses. Following a tour of his vineyard, visiting wine writers washed them down easily with some of the best Marzemino enjoyed over a three-day guided press trip to Trentino. Casual elegance, charming owners, delicious food and wine all fit into that positive image any #winelover would have of Italy – as you can see in the video.
Cultural blend
Yet Trentino reflects a blend of Germanic and Italian. Nearly 75% of planted vines in this northeastern Italian wine region are of white grapes, increasingly featuring the Müller Thurgau variety.
By the same token, most menus include Germanic foods from Knödel – similar to gnocchi – to Apple Strudel, made from the region’s ubiquitous apples. Such was the discovery of a group of wine writers on a press tour to the region in late September 2015.
This, too, is part of Italy.
Winery of the year belies notions of Old vs New World
Posted on October 30, 2015
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
30 October 2015
As more and more wine geeks realize, the lines between “Old World” and “New World” are blurring.
I recall an Australian master class organized by Decanter a few years ago, with winemakers there talking about picking at 11 am rather than at 3 pm to retain freshness.
Last year, during intense coursework to complete my WSET level three exam, fellow students discovered blind how crisp and fresh wines from New Zealand and South Africa can be.
So it was with great pleasure that I accepted an invitation from Greg Sherwood, senior buyer at Handford Wines – a superb London wine shop, by the way – to taste some fine terroir driven wines from Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines in South Africa.
I enjoyed very much the Schist and Quartz Chenin Blancs that I tried, as they were crisp and flavorful, with long finishes. Read More
Bordeaux: more than just big names
Posted on October 21, 2015
Joy in Montagne and Lalande de Pomerol with Jeff Berrouet
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
21 October 2015
Jean-Claude Berrouet, long time director of Petrus, bought Vieux Château Saint André in the somewhat obscure appellation of Montagne Saint Emilion back in 1978.
Why Montagne?
He had a double activity: vinifying wines for negociant Jean Pierre Moueix but also purchasing grapes from various terroirs. At that time, the company sold lots of bulk wines (en vrac in French) and Jean-Claude got to know many of the vineyards.
“My father sensed the quality of the vines,” remarked Jeff, his son, “so he bought the 11 hectares in Montagne.”
It was great to spend some time with Jeff who manages both Vieux Château Saint André in Montagne Saint Emilion and Château Samion in Lalande de Pomerol, which his father also had purchased.
“About 15 years ago, no one talked about Lalande de Pomerol, but that is changing,” Jeff said. “I see that more and more neighbors are interested when properties are on sale around here.”
Jeff Berrouet in the vat room at Château Samion, pouring some wine.
Both wines constitute bargains for Bordeaux wine lovers. Read More
Magical evening, majestic Margaux
Posted on October 18, 2015
18 October 2015
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
Earlier this month, a Hollywood like short film was published on YouTube recounting the story of how in 1810, the Marquis de la Colonilla, then owner of Château Margaux, requested one of the greatest architects of the time Louis Combes, to design a new layout for the estate.
The old buildings were demolished, except the XVIII century Orangery which served as a cellar during the construction. The project was completed in 1815. This building complex, which was registered as an Historic Monument in 1946, has remained unchanged until the present day.
The nine minute film, by Bruno Aveillan, includes an intricate model and simulated construction of the original estate, as well as an alluring woman in red who plays an inspirational role for the architect.
Although only published this month on YouTube, it was first shown on 14 June on a large screen to the international press, at Château Margaux, for a magnificent dinner. Bordaux wine merchants and importers were invited on 16 June to a similar dinner for the film – and to commemorate new buildings that had been designed by architect Lord Norman Foster. Read More
No more Jubilee
Posted on October 11, 2015
Hugel’s trend towards terroir, over brand
11 October 2015
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
As we have seen with Trimbach, in a previous post from these pages, the historic Alsace estate Hugel also has been critical of the grand cru AOC system established in Alsace in 1975, and revised in the 1980s.
Both estates have long preferred championing their brand wines.
Even if such famous brands as Hugel’s Jubilee and Trimbach’s Cuvee Frederic Emile have been made from vines grown on grand cru terroirs, neither estates ever bothered to mention that fact.
Until recently …
Back in April this year, I reported in decanter.com about a major change in “terroir direction” chez Hugel concerning their Schoelhammer Riesling 2007, named after a specific plot of vines from a grand cru terroir where Hugel owns vines. Read More
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