Domaine Albert Mann: innovative and friendly

Enjoying annual open doors – and trying 2015s

By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com 

5 May 2016

You want great wine at a good value?

Sure, you can find that in many wine regions. But in Alsace, where so many grands crus exists, so many complicated names, and confusion over whether a wine is sweet, off dry or dry, it can be a more difficult exercise.

Basically, as one does in Burgundy, one should rely on the producer.

And one producer I recently visited offers both high quality and fair prices: Domaine Albert Mann, whose winemakers Maurice & Jacky Barthelmé were named (justifiably) “Winemakers of the year 2012” by the leading french wine magazine Revue du Vin de France. Read More

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Pessac-Léognan (and Graves) pizzaz #Bdx15

And why dry extract matters

By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com

4 May 2016

Perhaps my overall favorite region in Bordeaux is the Graves region, which includes the since 1987 created Pessac-Léognan appellation that gathers such famous estates of the northern Graves, from Haut Brion and Pape Clement to Haut Bailly and Domaine de Chevalier.

Morning mist Domaine de Chevalier

Morning mist Domaine de Chevalier

It is here where #winelovers can enjoy both excellent reds and whites from Bordeaux. More often than not, a great vintage for reds is not such a great vintage for whites – and vice-versa. 2010, where both reds and whites were successful, is not the norm. 2014 is good to very good for both, perhaps better for whites, because the high acidity of that vintage lent extra vivacity, especially from producers who picked optimally ripe fruit. But is 2015 far behind for whites? In some cases, yes, but I found that several producers made wines with more dry extract than in 2014, even if the acidities were lower. Read More

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Ramonet in Alsace

Perfect tastings and lunch – with Montrachet from Jeroboam – and other treats

By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com 

3 May 2016

What a super surprise to taste a series of great wines from this fabulous Burgundy estate, in the heart of Alsace. The Ramonet family are friends with the Barthelmé family of Domaine Albert Mann in Wettolsheim, which produces some of Alsace’s best wines.

Each year, the Barthelmés organise an open door tasting with lunch, and I was so happy to have attended, particularly as the day was sunny and springy! We enjoyed many superb wines, and a fine lunch of fresh roasted vegetables, savory salad, a suckling pig barbecued on a spit, home-made potatoes au gratin, a variety of great French cheeses and sumptuous desserts. I mean, how often do you see eclairs – in this case vanilla and chocolate – cut on location, and then amazingly fresh strawberry/raspberry tarts. But I digress…

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Saint Julien #bdx15: subtle, suave, successful

By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com

 1 May 2016

2015 was a successful vintage for Saint Julien, with expected elegance combined with Cabernet driven structure. While some tasters seemed a touch under-whelmed, I was happy with most of the wines from this affable appellation. And boy-oh-boy Léoville Las Cases and Ducru Beaucaillou were both amazing – clearly better than in 2014.

Then again, some of the other wines seemed to be not all that much better than in 2014, a vintage that was also excellent for this appellation. For some estates, 2015 is getting more hype than the qualitative difference suggests, so savvy #winelovers should be wary of some of the 2015 pricing… Anyway, I enjoyed these barrel samples. As usual, in bold I liked in particular, when bold and red, even more. And when underlined, too, a kind of nirvana. Read More

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Pomerol panache!

Seduction or power from Pomerol #bdx15 barrel samples: you pays your money, you takes your choice

By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com

1 May 2016

Readers take note: Revised note for La Cabanne based on new sample

The appellation as a whole is successful in 2015. Indeed, many writers have propelled Pomerol to the top of the vintage pedestal. It’s in that vicinity at least, with plenty of superb samples, from moderately-priced estates (for Pomerol, that is) to the most famous. And that’s saying a lot for the smallest of Bordeaux’s major fine wine regions, spanning only three kilometers wide by 4 kilometers long.

Ella Lister at VCC

Fellow taster Ella Lister has the right look on her face. VCC was so good that maybe I was just perplexed about it.

But I found something rather interesting about this vintage. First off, alcohol levels were quite high for many Pomerols, as were the tannins. The best estates balanced everything very well. But readers who prefer freshness and elegance should know that Pomerol is not as homogenous as some say, at least in terms of style. Indeed, I found generally speaking two distinct styles. On the one hand, I found barrel samples that indeed harkened back to a combination of the 1985 and 2005 “5” vintages, as mentioned in my introduction to the 2015 barrel samples. On the other hand, very high tannins and alcohol levels encountered especially in many estates of Jean Pierre Moueix reminded me, too, of a modern version of 1975. Christian Moueix said that IPT levels reached 90 for some and alcohol up to about 14.5%. Many came across as “serious” samples, stressing power over sensuality. My most enthusiastic reactions in Pomerol are thus elicited by barrel samples stressing both seductive and bright tones, and underlying structure. Read More

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