Wine ChroniclesSaint Emilion Multiplex 2016
Posted on June 14, 2017
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
14 June 2017
Saint Emilion tends to be rather heterogenous in quality in any vintage. Given its size, variations in terroir and in style. Sure, a recent trend towards high alcohol and high extraction of tannin is (thankfully) dissipating.
Estates like Pavie Macquin and Larcis Ducasse, for example, are being made in somewhat fresher styles, and I liked both as nothing short of excellent in 2016. Seek them out!
It was a superb year for Cabernets – both Franc and Sauvignon. So, naturally, many Right Bank wines with Cabernet Franc tended to do well: see Figeac for example as one of the top wines of the vintage.
But the vintage is not so simply explained. Many Merlot-dominated blends are downright delicious from barrel.
Gorgeous photo of Saint Emilion evening shot as featured photo: by Miguel Lecuona.
Wines I like in bold. When red and bold, even more. When underlined, too? A kind of barrel tasting nirvana.
Favorites for price/quality ratios? Berliquet, Grand Mayne, Sansonnet, Yon-Figeac
Château Berliquet – Lovely cool blueberry and blackberry fruit. The tannins are foreboding, and the finish a bit tight, but this is promising. Give it time in barrel. The price should not be too onerous. 90-93 Read More
Celebrating Georgian wine
Posted on June 12, 2017
News from the 8th annual New Wine Festival
By Sarah May Grunwald for wine-chronicles.com
(Opening of qvevri photo, above, by Bruno Almeida, sommelier)
12 June 2017
The eighth New Wine Festival, annually held by The Georgian Wine Club, took place on Saturday, May 13th at the Mtatsminda Park, a famous landscaped park located at the top of Mount Mtatsminda overlooking the Georgian capital of Tbilisi.
The occasion? A yearly celebration of local wine and culture, with local musicians, and nearly 200 wine producers pouring 2016 vintage wines.
The festival is much more a cultural event, despite its wine roots. I attended with a group of journalists and wine professionals. We decided to arrive as early as possible because we were warned that, as the day went on, the festival would turn more into a big, crowded party rather than a wine tasting event. We were greeted by the always-professional Iago Bitarishvili, who gave us a short description of the event, glasses and a booklet with information on the many participating producers. Read More
Pomerol power in 2016
Posted on May 30, 2017
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine chronicles.com
30 May 2017
Last year’s Pomerol Panache is followed by more serious tannin this year.
Whatever the case, Pomerol now has a run of three excellent vintages in a row. With some exceptions, 2016 is the most powerful among the three – more Pauillac than Pomerol. 2014 showcases brightness, and 2015 more inviting richness.
Tannic seriousness was best evidenced tasting through the Moueix stable, culminating in a Château Trotanoy that is more muscular than ever. By the same token, Vieux Château Certan was the most forebodingly powerful that I can recall from barrel. Petrus hit the scales at nearly 15% alcohol; it too, packs particular punch. Lafleur’s lofty, towering structure resembles that of Pauillac first growth Latour.
So in 2016 for Pomerol, more often than not, the tannins impose, although the best estates managed to include, too, much elegance, floral aspects and sumptuous charm.
In reading fellow critics, I agree with Jeff Leve, who “gives the nod” to 2015 for the appellation, on a general level. As he wrote in his review: “2016 is not a weaker vintage; 2016 Pomerol is just different.”
For me, the difference lies in the tannic power for so many of the 2016 Pomerols. Many will likely last longer than 2015, but will they convey the same charm as 2015? I am not an optimist. Crystal ball prognostications are as reliable as Greek trains being on time, however, so seeking Pomerol in 2016 would make for a wise choice, as the appellation features some of my top 2016 wines, as you can read in the Top of the Pops section. Read More
Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition
Posted on May 26, 2017
Taking part in an international wine competition in San Diego
26-28 May 2017 in San Diego
Many thanks to friend and chief judge Robert Whitley, for the opportunity to judge this weekend for the Critics Challenge in San Diego. I am honored to be a part of a panel of great wine connoisseurs.
Robert writes the syndicated Wine Talk column for Creators Syndicate. He and I agree totally that the Médoc excelled in particular for #Bordeaux16; here his excellent post. It is always a great pleasure to meet Robert in Bordeaux during en primeur or at Vinexpo. It will be great to meet again in San Diego these next three days!
Robert also is publisher of the online wine publication WineReviewOnline.com. His columns covering wine and spirits over the past 25 years have appeared in newspapers and magazines from coast to coast, and he also contributes columns and reviews to WineReviewOnline.com.
He also keeps busy as Executive Director of the San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge, Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition and Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition in addition to the Critics Challenge. @wineguru Read More
Terroirs at Trimbach
Posted on May 25, 2017
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
25 May 2017
Earlier this month, it was great to meet Julien Trimbach, son of Jean Trimbach, and nephew of winemaking director Pierre Trimbach of the celebrated Trimbach Estate in Ribeauvillé in Alsace.
Trimbach wines are “go-to” in the sense that you can always rely on a pure, dry expression of Riesling, especially, that on their entry level brands at least quenches your (wine) thirst. Upper levels amount to wonderfully sublime experiences, for certain brands that the family produces.
Julien Trimbach
The family has held this domain since the 17th century, and their strong brand name has succeeded worldwide and at all price points: from entry level Pinot Blanc to top notch Riesling. Clos Sainte Hune, anyone?
But the 13th generation, along with cousins Frédérique and Anne, daughters of Pierre Trimbach, has been emphasizing terroir-named wines that seem to be appearing like so many autumnal mushrooms throughout the region.
More information on how the younger Alsace generation is focusing on terroir based wine? Here my article in Decanter from a few years back, still applicable today. Read More
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